Shin of beef makes an ideal cut for pies, stewing and slow cooking, as the connective tissue breaks down during cooking to enrich the gravy.  It is also a far cheaper way to buy steak – a 500g shin (about the size of my forearm) cost just £4 from my local butcher.  The cut is evidently less popular than it once was; my mother recounts that my gran always used shin of beef in pies and and stews.   Jon Torode points out that supermarkets only sell ‘braising beef’ which can be an mixture of different cuts, and in my experience, can lack the marbled fat which is the whole point of buying it. 

I have recently seen two steak pie recipes and a steak pudding recipe in BBC Olive Magazine

• Individual steak, red wine and mushroom pies (no pastry base and a lattice pastry top);
• Steak pie (with pastry top and bottom);
• Pickled onion, steak and ale pudding.

I felt my ideal pie needed to have steak, onion and ale.  Not deterred, I studied all three recipes and came up with my own pie recipe. 

• Carefully peel 8-10 shallots (taking care to keep them whole) and place into a pan with 25g melted butter and slowly caramelise for 10-15mins on medium heat before setting aside.
• Brown 500g diced shin of beef in a hot pan, in batches if necessary.
• Add back shallots and sprinkle in 35g plain flour(which will act to thicken the gravy) and cook for 2 mins.
• Slowly add 300ml of ale (I chose ‘Old Slug Porter’ a beautifully dark rich ale) and 300ml of beef stock, stirring to stop flour sticking to pan.
• Add 1tbsp of Worcestershire sauce,  a sprig of thyme, a hand full of chopped flat leaf parsley, a grating of nutmeg  and some freshly ground black pepper.  Keep the stirring  until the gravy boils and thickens.
• Taste the mixture – depending on the ale you chose to use, you may wish to add some sugar.  The dark porter I used (similar to Guinness) had given a strong rich flavour, but gave a slightly bitter aftertaste.  I added 2 tspn of dark brown sugar, but the amount required will be to taste.  A light ale probably won’t require any sugar at all.
• Cover and simmer for 1 1/2 hours or until the meat is tender, stirring occasionally, whilst sitting back enjoying the rest of the ale.
• Preheat oven to 200°C (180°C fan or gas mark 6).
• Roll out a block of puff pastry  (hey, if Jon can buy ready puff pastry, so can I!), butter a 20cm pie tin, line with pastry, spoon in steak filling.
• Brush a beaten egg around the rim of the pie before adding the pastry top.  Cut the top to size, crimp the lid and base together (with fingers or fork), brush with top with egg.
• Prick holes to let out the steam and stop the pie going stodgy.
• Bake for 45 to 50 mins oven. 

The ensuing pie was easily the best I’ve ever tasted.  The meat melted in you mouth and the gravy was rich and thick and meaty.  Shop bought puff pastry is ever reliable and was light and fluffy and golden.  The length of cooking meant that the shallots had completely broken down.  Next time, I will hold some back to add in before it goes into oven.

Possible Variations: 

• I intend to try this with some shallots held back to the last minute, so that they stay more intact.
• Button mushrooms would enhance this pie, perhaps add them whole just before the pie is made up and goes into the oven.
• I will try the pie with red wine (perhaps using say a full bodied red and adding some bacon to make the pie reminiscentof a boeuf bourguignon)

Also, I’m really excited about the prospects for my new favourite cut of beef – the shin.  I think it will make fantastic curries and stews.  I’m now going to try to track down some equivalent cuts from Lamb or Pork – something which will be glorious slow cooked.

Pie Debate

To me a pie has to have a top, a middle and a bottom.  I realise that this leaves Shepherd and Cottage “pies” out in the cold, but unless there’s a pastry case, I don’t feel it’s really a true pie.  I’d be interested to know what others think.  A pie without a lid is a flan or a tart.  I don’t know that that makes a pie without base – a bake perhaps?